A three-day walk along the north-eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley, from Sundarijal through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park to Chisapani (2,200 m), along the ridges to the hill station of Nagarkot and down to the ancient temple of Changu Narayan. Himalayan views from Langtang to the Everest region without a flight or a long drive.
A three-day walk along the north-eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley, from Sundarijal through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park to Chisapani (2,200 m), along the ridges to the hill station of Nagarkot and down to the ancient temple of Changu Narayan. Himalayan views from Langtang to the Everest region without a flight or a long drive.
The hills that ring the Kathmandu Valley rise above 2,000 m, high enough to look over the city's haze to the snow peaks along the Tibetan border. This short trek follows the north-eastern rim, starting less than an hour's drive from Kathmandu and finishing at Changu Narayan, one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal.
On the first day we drive to Sundarijal, where the Bagmati river leaves the hills, and climb on stone steps beside the old water pipeline and reservoir into Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. The trail passes the Tamang village of Mulkharka and climbs through oak and rhododendron forest to a pass at Borlang Bhanjyang before dropping to Chisapani, a ridge-top village facing the Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Jugal ranges. Day two is the longest, following forest and farm trails through Chauki Bhanjyang and Jhule and climbing back up to Nagarkot. On the last morning we watch sunrise over the Himalaya from Nagarkot, then walk down through Telkot and along the ridge to Changu Narayan before driving back to Kathmandu.
The highest point is about 2,430 m, so altitude is not a concern. The walking is on stone steps, forest paths and some rural roads, four to seven hours a day. It suits anyone with a few spare days in Kathmandu, trekkers looking for a warm-up before a bigger trek, and families with active children.
The first night is in a simple teahouse at Chisapani and the second in a hotel at Nagarkot, where many rooms look out to the mountains. Your guide arranges the national park permit and transport and knows the villages and temples along the way.
Anyone in reasonable health who walks regularly can do this trek. The first day climbs about 1,000 m from Sundarijal on stone steps and forest paths, which is a steady four to five hours. The second day is the longest, six to seven hours with several climbs and descents between Chisapani and Nagarkot. The last day is mostly downhill and three to four hours. The highest point is about 2,430 m, so altitude does not affect most people. Some long walks on hilly ground and stair climbing in the weeks before you come will make the steps much easier. It is a good warm-up for a longer trek, and active children manage it well.
A drive of about an hour takes us to Sundarijal on the north-east rim of the valley. We show our permits at the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park gate and climb on stone steps beside the water pipeline and reservoir, then through the Tamang village of Mulkharka and oak and rhododendron forest to the pass at Borlang Bhanjyang. A short descent brings us to Chisapani, a ridge-top village with views north to the Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Jugal on a clear evening.
If the morning is clear, we watch sunrise over the mountains before breakfast. The trail runs through forest and terraced farmland, down to Chauki Bhanjyang and Jhule, where we stop for lunch, then climbs again past Kattike Bhanjyang to Nagarkot. This is the longest day, but the views back to the Himalaya keep coming along the ridges.
We are up before dawn to watch the sun rise along the Himalaya from Nagarkot. After breakfast we walk down through pine forest and villages to Telkot and along the ridge to Changu Narayan, a two-tiered temple to Vishnu with some of the finest stone and wood carving in the valley. Our vehicle then drives you back to your Kathmandu hotel, about an hour.
Permits we arrange: shivapuri_nagarjun_np
The first day from Sundarijal to Chisapani runs through Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, and you need the park entry permit, which is checked at the Sundarijal gate. We arrange it for you; bring your passport on the first morning. Nepal Tourism Board rules from 1 April 2023 require foreign trekkers in national parks to walk with a licensed guide booked through a registered agency. Every trek we run is led by a licensed guide.
The views are best from October to early December and on winter mornings, when the air is clear. In spring the mornings can be clear but haze from the valley often hides the peaks by midday. From June to September the monsoon brings cloud, rain and leeches, and the mountains are rarely seen. Sunrise is the most reliable time to see them from both Chisapani and Nagarkot.
There are no ATMs at Chisapani. Nagarkot has more shops and hotels, but bring enough Nepali rupees from Kathmandu for drinks, snacks, the Changu Narayan entry fee and tips. Both overnight stops have electricity, though charging can cost extra at Chisapani.
Do not drink untreated tap or stream water. Lodges sell boiled or filtered water, or bring a filter, tablets or a UV pen and refill your own bottles.
Changu Narayan is an active Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, and part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site. Remove your shoes where asked, walk round the temple clockwise and ask before photographing people at worship.
Everything is yours to bring, except items marked “Rent locally”.
Two moisture-wicking base layer tops
Fleece or light insulated jacket
Mornings at Chisapani and Nagarkot are cold from November to February
Waterproof jacket
Trekking trousers
Warm hat, sun hat and light gloves
Trekking socks and underwear for three days
Broken-in trekking boots or sturdy trail shoes
The stone steps above Sundarijal are steep
Sandals or light shoes for the evenings
Daypack of 20 to 30 litres with rain cover
Soft duffel bag for the porter, about 10 kg per trekker
Sleeping bag liner
Lodges provide blankets
Trekking polesRent locally
Easy to hire in Kathmandu
Head torch
For the sunrise walks
Two one-litre water bottles and a filter, tablets or UV pen
Power bank and charging cables
Sunglasses
Sunscreen and lip balm with SPF
Personal medicines and blister plasters
Insect repellent
Useful in spring and after rain
Hand sanitiser, quick-dry towel and toiletries
Passport
Needed for the national park permit
Travel insurance details
Nepali rupees in cash
It is an easy trek with one long day. Day one climbs about 1,000 m from Sundarijal in four to five hours, day two is six to seven hours with several ups and downs, and day three is three to four hours, mostly downhill. The highest point is about 2,430 m.
From Chisapani you look north to the Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Jugal ranges. Nagarkot has one of the widest views in the valley, from the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges in the west across Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Jugal to the Rolwaling and Everest ranges in the east. Everest itself is a small peak on the horizon, visible only on the clearest mornings.
Chisapani is about 2,200 m and Nagarkot about 2,175 m. Figures vary between maps and hotels, from about 2,140 m to 2,300 m for Chisapani and 2,160 m to 2,195 m for Nagarkot.
Yes, the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park entry permit for the first day's walk from Sundarijal. We arrange it and it is included in the trek.
Yes. We can finish at Nagarkot on day two after the walk from Chisapani and drive back to Kathmandu, missing the sunrise and the walk to Changu Narayan. Most people find the third day worth it.
Yes. It gets your legs used to stone steps and several hours of walking a day, lets you test your boots and gear, and needs no flights, so it fits easily into the days before a longer trek.
Yes. Active children who are used to walking several hours manage it well, and the low altitude makes it a good family trek. The second day is long, so we can shorten it by using a vehicle for part of the way if needed.
Yes. From Chisapani the trail continues north through Helambu towards Langtang. Ask us about our Helambu Trek, which starts on the same route.
Chisapani Nagarkot Trek
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