A six-day trek from Pokhara that flies to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki valley, walks to the old village of Kagbeni and up to the Muktinath temple (3,800 m), then visits the Thakali village of Marpha before flying back. Desert valleys, Tibetan-style villages and close views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri.
A six-day trek from Pokhara that flies to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki valley, walks to the old village of Kagbeni and up to the Muktinath temple (3,800 m), then visits the Thakali village of Marpha before flying back. Desert valleys, Tibetan-style villages and close views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri.
North of the main Himalayan range, the Kali Gandaki valley turns dry and windswept, with flat-roofed villages, poplar groves and apple orchards set against bare, eroded cliffs. This trek flies into the heart of it. A 20-minute flight from Pokhara threads between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas to land at Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang, from where we walk up the valley to Kagbeni and Muktinath and back down to Marpha.
On the first day we walk up the wide riverbed to Kagbeni, a maze of narrow alleys and mud-brick houses at the meeting of the Jhong Khola and the Kali Gandaki, and the southern gateway to Upper Mustang. Next day we climb the Jhong Khola valley through Khingar and the old village of Jharkot to Ranipauwa, the village beside the Muktinath temple. Muktinath is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike: pilgrims bathe under its 108 water spouts and visit the shrine where a natural gas flame burns beside a spring. We walk back down to Jomsom on day three and spend day four on a walk to Marpha, the whitewashed Thakali village known for its apples, brandy and monastery. On day five we fly back to Pokhara, and day six is kept spare in case the Jomsom flight is delayed.
The flights make the trip short, but they also bring altitude quickly: you land at about 2,720 m and sleep at about 3,700 m on the second night. We sleep at Kagbeni first so your body can adjust, and the walking is moderate, three to six hours a day on wide trails and jeep tracks. The other challenge is the wind, which funnels up the valley from late morning, so we start early each day.
You stay in Thakali lodges, which are some of the most comfortable on any Nepal trek, with hot showers, good food and apple pie on most menus. Your guide arranges the permit and flights, explains the shrines at Muktinath and knows when to start to beat the wind.
The walking itself is moderate: three to six hours a day, mostly on wide trails and jeep tracks with steady gradients. What makes it harder than the Annapurna foothill treks is altitude. You fly to about 2,720 m on day one and sleep at about 3,700 m on day two, and the Muktinath temple is at 3,800 m. Most people feel breathless on the climb from Kagbeni and some get a mild headache, so walk slowly, drink plenty and tell your guide how you feel. The other challenge is the strong wind that blows up the valley from late morning, carrying dust; a buff and sunglasses help. You should be comfortable walking five to six hours with a light daypack. To prepare, take regular walks of four to five hours on hilly ground in the weeks before you travel. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should check with their doctor about the altitude before booking.
An early 20-minute flight takes us up the Kali Gandaki between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas to Jomsom. After tea we walk north along the wide, stony riverbed past Eklebhatti, with Nilgiri behind us, to Kagbeni. In the afternoon we explore its narrow alleys, prayer wheels, monastery and the fields at the meeting of the Jhong Khola and the Kali Gandaki.
We climb steadily out of Kagbeni into the Jhong Khola valley, with wide views back over the Kali Gandaki to Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri. The trail passes Khingar and the old village of Jharkot, with its 15th-century monastery, to Ranipauwa, the village of lodges beside the temple. In the afternoon we walk up to the Muktinath temple to see the 108 water spouts and the shrine of the natural flame.
Return to the temple in the quiet early morning if you wish, then we walk down through Jharkot and Khingar to Kagbeni and follow the Kali Gandaki south to Jomsom. We leave early to cover the open riverbed before the afternoon wind picks up. The afternoon is free in Jomsom, where shops sell the black fossil ammonites, called shaligram, found in the Kali Gandaki.
We walk down the valley to Marpha, a Thakali village of whitewashed stone houses, paved lanes and apple orchards. Climb to the monastery above the village for a view over the rooftops, try the local apple brandy and dried apples, then return to Jomsom on foot or by local jeep before the wind gets up.
We take an early morning flight back down the Kali Gandaki gorge to Pokhara, with Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other. Our driver meets you at Pokhara airport and takes you to your hotel, leaving the rest of the day free by the lake.
Jomsom flights are often held up by cloud or wind, so we keep this day spare. If the flight was delayed, we fly today. If everything ran to time, it is a free day in Pokhara for the lakeside, a boat on Phewa Lake or a trip up to Sarangkot.
Permits we arrange: Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP)
Small planes fly between Pokhara and Jomsom in the early morning only, because strong winds usually close Jomsom airport from late morning. Cloud at either end can delay or cancel flights, which is why day six is a spare day. If the return flight is cancelled for several days, we can drive you back to Pokhara by jeep through Beni, a long full day on a rough road. Baggage limits on these planes are strict, so pack light and leave anything you do not need at your Pokhara hotel.
You land at about 2,720 m, sleep at about 2,800 m in Kagbeni and about 3,700 m in Ranipauwa, and visit the Muktinath temple at 3,800 m. That is a fast gain, and the night at Kagbeni helps your body adjust. Walk slowly on the climb from Kagbeni, drink three to four litres of water a day and avoid alcohol until you are back down in Jomsom. Mild headaches and breathlessness are common; a headache that does not go away, vomiting or confusion means we descend. Your guide checks your oxygen levels each evening.
The whole route lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so you need an ACAP entry permit. The fee for foreign nationals is NPR 3,000 per person; children under ten do not pay. We get it in Pokhara before you fly, so we need a scan of your passport photo page and a passport photo. Kagbeni is the southern edge of Upper Mustang: going further north needs a separate restricted area permit, which this trek does not include. Nepal Tourism Board rules from 1 April 2023 require foreign trekkers to walk with a licensed guide booked through a registered agency; TIMS is not checked on Annapurna routes at present. Every trek we run is led by a licensed guide.
A strong wind blows up the Kali Gandaki from late morning most days, carrying dust and grit, so we start walking early. Bring a buff or scarf to cover your face, wraparound sunglasses and good sun protection: the air is dry and the sun strong at this height.
Jomsom and Muktinath have ATMs, but they can be out of service, so bring enough Nepali rupees from Pokhara for drinks, snacks, showers, charging, temple offerings and tips. Lodges in Jomsom, Kagbeni and Ranipauwa have electricity and most charge a small fee for charging devices.
Muktinath is an active pilgrimage site for Hindus and Buddhists. Remove your shoes where asked, walk round shrines clockwise and ask before photographing pilgrims or priests. Many Hindu pilgrims bathe under the 108 spouts and in the two pools in front of the temple; you are welcome to join them if you do not mind cold water.
The valley lies in the rain shadow of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, so it stays drier than the south side even in the monsoon, but flights are less reliable from June to September. March to May and September to November bring the most settled weather and clearest views. Winter days are often sunny, but nights at Muktinath drop well below freezing and snow can fall.
Everything is yours to bring, except items marked “We provide” or “Rent locally”.
Base layers: two moisture-wicking tops and one pair of thermal leggings
Fleece jacket
Down jacketWe provide
On loan from us; evenings at Muktinath are cold
Windproof and waterproof jacket
Essential for the afternoon wind
Two pairs of trekking trousers
Warm hat, sun hat and buff or scarf
The buff keeps dust out of your mouth and nose
Liner gloves and warm gloves
Trekking socks and underwear
Broken-in trekking boots
Sandals or light shoes for the evenings
Also useful for the temple, where shoes come off
Daypack of 25 to 35 litres
Soft duffel bag for the porter, kept light for the flight
Sleeping bagWe provide
On loan from us
Trekking polesRent locally
Easy to hire in Pokhara
Wraparound sunglasses with UV protection
For sun, wind and dust
Head torch
Two one-litre water bottles and a filter, tablets or UV pen
Power bank and charging cables
High-SPF sunscreen and lip balm
The air is very dry
Moisturiser and eye drops
Useful in the dry, dusty wind
Personal medicines, blister plasters and rehydration salts
Talk to your doctor about altitude medication
Hand sanitiser, quick-dry towel and toiletries
Passport and two passport photos
Needed for the permit and the flights
Travel insurance details
Nepali rupees in cash
We fly both ways. The flight from Pokhara takes about 20 minutes and runs early in the morning. A road also links Pokhara and Jomsom through Beni, but it takes a long day on a rough road; we use it only if flights are cancelled for several days.
Flights are often delayed by cloud or wind. On the way in we simply fly the next morning. On the way out, day six is kept spare for this. If flights are cancelled for longer, we can drive you back to Pokhara by jeep.
The temple stands at about 3,800 m. Ranipauwa, the village beside it where we sleep, is a little lower at about 3,700 m. You will see figures from 3,710 m to 3,800 m quoted for both.
Mild symptoms such as breathlessness and a slight headache are common at Muktinath because the flight gains height quickly. Sleeping at Kagbeni first, walking slowly and drinking plenty helps most people. If symptoms get worse, we descend, which here is quick and easy by trail or jeep.
Not on this trek. North of Kagbeni is Upper Mustang, a restricted area that needs a special permit and at least two trekkers. Ask us about our Upper Mustang Trek, which starts the same way.
Both. Hindus worship Vishnu here and consider it one of the most sacred sites in Nepal, and Tibetan Buddhists know it as Chumig Gyatsa, the Hundred Waters. You will see pilgrims from both faiths.
A strong, dusty wind blows up the Kali Gandaki valley from late morning. Walking early means calmer air, clearer views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri and more time to explore the villages in the afternoon.
Marpha is a Thakali village of whitewashed stone houses and paved lanes, often called the apple capital of Nepal. You can try its apple brandy, cider and dried apples, and climb to the monastery above the village for a view of the valley.
Yes. Longer versions walk down the Kali Gandaki through Tukuche and Tatopani and climb to Ghorepani and Poon Hill. Ask us and we will plan a route that fits your time.
Jomsom Muktinath Trek
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