A remote ten-day trek up the Rolwaling valley in Dolakha, through the Sherpa villages of Simigaun and Beding to the summer settlement of Na and Tsho Rolpa, one of the largest glacial lakes in Nepal at 4,580 m, below the Trakarding glacier.
A remote ten-day trek up the Rolwaling valley in Dolakha, through the Sherpa villages of Simigaun and Beding to the summer settlement of Na and Tsho Rolpa, one of the largest glacial lakes in Nepal at 4,580 m, below the Trakarding glacier.
Rolwaling is a narrow valley between the Langtang and Everest regions, hemmed in by the high peaks of the Rolwaling Himal along the Tibetan border. It sees only a small number of trekkers each year. The trail climbs from the Tamakoshi river through Chhetri and Tamang farmland to the Sherpa villages of Simigaun and Beding, and ends at Tsho Rolpa, a glacial lake about 3.5 km long that fills the head of the valley beneath the Trakarding glacier.
We drive from Kathmandu past Charikot and down to the Tamakoshi, then walk up a long stone staircase to Simigaun and its gompa. From there the trail follows the Rolwaling Chu upstream through dense forest, past the riverside lodges of Surmuche and Kyalche to Dongang, and on into the open upper valley at Beding, the main village of Rolwaling, with its old gompa and Gauri Shankar rising behind.
The itinerary is paced for the altitude. We spend a full day at Beding to acclimatise before moving up to Na, a cluster of stone herders' houses used mainly in summer, at 4,180 m. From Na we walk up the moraine to the lake and back in a day, then descend over three days to the road.
This is a quieter and rougher trek than the Everest or Annapurna routes. Teahouses are small family lodges with basic food, often no electricity beyond a solar panel, and little or no mobile signal above Beding. Many lodges close outside the main seasons, so we run the trek in spring and autumn. Upper Rolwaling is a restricted area, so you need a special permit, a licensed guide, all of which we arrange.
Tsho Rolpa suits fit walkers with some previous trekking experience, ideally a multi-day hike at altitude. Several days are long, six to eight hours, with big height gains: about 800 m from Simigaun to Dongang and 900 m from Dongang to Beding, and the trail is rough, steep and slippery in places. You sleep at 4,180 m for two nights and reach 4,580 m at the lake, so good acclimatisation matters and the itinerary includes a rest day at Beding. Facilities are basic and the valley is remote, with the nearest road two to three days' walk away. Train for eight weeks before you go: long hill walks with a loaded day pack on consecutive days, stair climbing and steady cardio such as running or cycling. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should see a doctor before booking.
We leave Kathmandu early by jeep, heading east on the Araniko Highway and then north past Charikot, the Dolakha district headquarters. The road drops to the Tamakoshi river and follows it upstream through Singati to Gongar, a small roadside settlement where we spend the night.
A short walk up the valley brings us to Chhetchhet, where we start the long stone staircase up to Simigaun. It is a steep climb of about 600 m through terraced fields and forest, but the afternoon is free to rest and visit the village gompa.
We climb out of Simigaun into forest, then follow the Rolwaling Chu upstream past the riverside lodges of Surmuche, where we stop for lunch, and Kyalche. A final climb brings us to Dongang, a small clearing with a couple of lodges. It is a long day with plenty of ups and downs.
The valley gradually opens as we climb through forest, past the lodge at Thangding, and out into the upper valley. Beding is the main Sherpa village of Rolwaling, a cluster of stone houses and an old gompa on the river flats, with Gauri Shankar (7,134 m) rising to the north-west.
A rest day to let your body adjust before going higher. We visit the Beding gompa and walk around the village and its fields, and you can rest, read and watch village life. Taking this day properly is the best thing you can do to reach the lake comfortably.
Above Beding the trees give way to juniper and open grazing land. We follow the river east up a wide glacial valley, passing mani walls and yak herders' shelters, to Na, a summer settlement of stone houses below the moraine that holds Tsho Rolpa. The afternoon is for resting.
We set off early and climb gradually along the valley and up onto the moraine to the western shore of Tsho Rolpa. The lake stretches about 3.5 km east to the snout of the Trakarding glacier, with ice peaks rising on both sides. After time at the shore we walk back down to Na for the night.
A long descending day. We retrace our steps down the valley to Beding, stop for lunch, and continue down through the forest to Dongang. The thicker air makes the walking feel much easier.
We follow the Rolwaling Chu back down past Kyalche and Surmuche, then make the final climb to Simigaun. In the evening we celebrate the end of the trek with the crew.
An hour or so down the stone steps brings us to Chhetchhet on the Tamakoshi, where the jeep meets us for the drive back via Singati and Charikot. We arrive in Kathmandu in the evening and drop you at your hotel.
Permits we arrange: Gaurishankar Conservation Area, rolwaling_rap
The upper Rolwaling valley, Gaurishankar Rural Municipality ward 9 in Dolakha, which includes Beding, Na and Tsho Rolpa, is a restricted area. Foreign trekkers need a restricted area permit from the Department of Immigration, which currently costs USD 20 per person per week. It is issued only through a registered trekking agency, for trekkers travelling with a licensed guide; since March 2026 a single trekker can get it. You also need a Gaurishankar Conservation Area entry permit. We arrange both in Kathmandu; we need a scan of your passport and visa in advance, and your original passport on arrival.
You climb from about 1,400 m at the roadhead to 4,180 m at Na in five days, and reach 4,580 m at the lake. The rest day at Beding is important and we do not skip it. Your guide checks your oxygen saturation every evening. Drink three to four litres of water a day, walk slowly and report any headache, nausea or breathlessness. If symptoms get worse, we descend; in a serious emergency evacuation is by helicopter.
There are no flights. The drive from Kathmandu to Gongar takes seven to eight hours, via the Araniko Highway, Charikot and the Tamakoshi valley through Singati. The road along the Tamakoshi is subject to landslides, particularly after the monsoon, and delays of a few hours are not unusual. We use a private jeep for the whole journey.
There are no ATMs or shops on the trek; bring all the Nepali rupees you need from Kathmandu. Lodges above Simigaun run on small solar panels or micro-hydro, so charging is limited and sometimes unavailable at Dongang and Na. Carry a power bank. Mobile signal is patchy at Simigaun and Beding and absent at Dongang and Na.
Many lodges in Rolwaling close during the monsoon and winter, when snow and very cold nights make the upper valley hard going. In early April the lake can still be frozen. We run the trek in April, May, October and November. October and November give the clearest skies; spring brings rhododendron flowers in the lower forest.
Rolwaling is regarded by Sherpas as a sacred hidden valley, and killing animals is forbidden in the upper valley, so lodge menus above the lower villages are vegetarian. Walk clockwise around mani walls and chortens, ask before photographing people or gompas, and carry out any rubbish you bring in.
Tsho Rolpa is dammed by a moraine and is monitored by the government as a potential glacial lake outburst hazard, with an early warning system downstream. Your guide keeps to the established trail along the moraine, and we do not walk on the lake ice or below the glacier front.
Everything is yours to bring, except items marked “We provide” or “Rent locally”.
Down jacketWe provide
On loan for the trek
Waterproof shell jacket and trousers
Fleece or synthetic mid layer
Two or three base layer tops
Merino or synthetic
Trekking trousers
Thermal leggings
For cold nights at Beding and Na
Warm hat, sun hat and buff
Light gloves and insulated gloves
Trekking socks
Four or five pairs
Broken-in waterproof trekking boots with good grip
The trail is rough and slippery in places
Light shoes or sandals for the evenings
Four-season sleeping bag rated to about minus 15 CWe provide
On loan
Day pack of 30 to 35 litres
With rain cover
Duffel bag for the porterWe provide
Keep it under 10 kg
Trekking polesRent locally
Strongly recommended for the descents
Head torch with spare batteries
Two water bottles
One litre each
Water purification tablets or filter bottle
No bottled water above Simigaun
Glacier-grade sunglasses
Power bank of at least 20,000 mAh
Charging is limited at Dongang and Na
Sunscreen SPF 50 and lip balm
Personal medicines and blister plasters
Ask your doctor about Diamox
Hand sanitiser and toilet paper
Passport with Nepal visa and two passport photos
Needed for the restricted area permit
Travel insurance details
Must cover helicopter rescue to 5,000 m
Snacks and energy bars
There are no shops on the trail
Nepali rupees in small notes
No ATMs on the trek
The lake lies at 4,580 m. It is about 3.5 km long and up to half a kilometre wide, with a maximum depth of around 135 m, and it is fed by the Trakarding glacier at its eastern end. It is one of the largest glacial lakes in Nepal.
Yes. Upper Rolwaling around Beding, Na and Tsho Rolpa is a restricted area, so you need a restricted area permit, issued through a registered agency to trekkers with a licensed guide (solo trekkers included since March 2026), plus a Gaurishankar Conservation Area permit. We arrange both. Solo trekkers can join one of our group departures or book a private trip with a companion.
We grade it challenging. There is no technical climbing, but several days are six to eight hours with 800 to 900 m of ascent, the trail is rough in places, and you sleep at 4,180 m. Previous multi-day trekking experience is a real advantage.
Small, family-run lodges with simple rooms, thin mattresses and shared pit or squat toilets. Simigaun and Beding have a few lodges each; Dongang and Na have only a handful. Food is simple and vegetarian: dal bhat, noodles, potatoes and Tibetan bread. Electricity comes from solar panels and is limited.
Not on this trek. The Tashi Lapcha (5,755 m) crossing beyond Tsho Rolpa is a glaciated pass that needs camping, mountaineering equipment and additional permits. It is a much longer and more serious expedition-style trip.
There is patchy mobile signal in Simigaun and around Beding, and none at Dongang, Na or the lake. There is no Wi-Fi above the road. Expect to be out of contact for several days.
October and November for clear weather, and April and May for warmer days and flowering rhododendrons lower down. Many lodges close in the monsoon and in winter, and the lake is often still frozen in early April.
Your guide monitors everyone daily. With mild symptoms we rest at Na or Beding; if symptoms get worse, we descend immediately, which in Rolwaling means walking down to Beding or Dongang. In a serious emergency we call a helicopter, which is why your insurance must cover rescue to 5,000 m.
Tsho Rolpa Trek
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