A 12-day guided trek from Pokhara into the former Kingdom of Lo: fly to Jomsom, walk north from Kagbeni through the eroded cliffs and red-walled villages of the upper Kali Gandaki to the walled town of Lo Manthang, and return by the western trail past Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa) and the red cliffs of Drakmar.
A 12-day guided trek from Pokhara into the former Kingdom of Lo: fly to Jomsom, walk north from Kagbeni through the eroded cliffs and red-walled villages of the upper Kali Gandaki to the walled town of Lo Manthang, and return by the western trail past Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa) and the red cliffs of Drakmar.
Upper Mustang is the high, dry country north of Kagbeni, tucked behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges in the rain shadow of the Himalaya. Until 1992 it was closed to outsiders, and it is still a restricted area with its own permit. The culture is Tibetan: whitewashed villages with stacked firewood on the roofs, long mani walls, chortens painted in red, white and grey, and monasteries that have been in use for centuries. The walled town of Lo Manthang, seat of the old kings of Lo, is the goal of the trek.
We fly from Pokhara to Jomsom early in the morning and walk up the Kali Gandaki to Kagbeni, where the restricted area begins. From there the trail climbs out of the river bed through Tangbe and Chhusang to Chele, then crosses a series of passes between 3,600 m and 4,010 m to Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang. Each of these villages sits in a green patch of barley fields and willow trees surrounded by bare, wind-carved cliffs. On day six we cross the Lo La (3,950 m) and see Lo Manthang's walls on the plateau below.
We spend a full day based in Lo Manthang to visit its monasteries and the old royal palace from the outside, and to walk out to the Chhoser valley with its cave dwellings cut into the cliffs. The return follows the western trail over the Marang La (4,280 m), the highest point of the trek, to Lo Gekar, one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal, and down to Drakmar beneath its red cliffs. From there we rejoin the main trail through Ghami and Ghiling, and descend to Chhusang, Kagbeni and Jomsom for the flight back to Pokhara.
Days are steady rather than steep: five to seven hours on most stages, on dry, dusty trails and jeep tracks. Overnight altitudes stay between 3,500 m and 3,810 m for a week, which suits a gradual acclimatisation, but the afternoon wind in the Kali Gandaki is strong and cold, and the sun is fierce. Lodges are simple family-run teahouses with hot meals, and most villages now have electricity and some form of internet.
The trek suits fit walkers with some multi-day hiking experience. There is no technical ground, but you walk five to seven hours on most days, often into a strong afternoon wind, and cross several passes between 3,600 m and 4,280 m. You sleep above 3,500 m for seven nights, so a steady pace and good acclimatisation matter more than speed. To prepare, walk or hike for three to five hours at a time, on hills if you can, every weekend for two to three months before the trip, carrying a light daypack. Stair climbing, cycling and running all help build the leg strength and stamina you need. Anyone with heart, lung or blood pressure conditions should see a doctor before booking.
We take the first morning flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, a 20-minute hop through the Kali Gandaki gorge between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. After meeting the porters we walk up the wide, stony river bed past Eklebhatti to Kagbeni, an old fortified village of mud-brick houses and narrow alleys at the meeting of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers. In the afternoon there is time to visit Kag Chode monastery.
Your guide registers the group's permits at the checkpoint at the northern end of Kagbeni, and we enter Upper Mustang. The trail follows the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, partly on the river bed and partly on the cliffs above, to the small village of Tangbe with its whitewashed houses and apple orchards, then on to Chhusang. We cross the river near a red cliff full of cave openings and climb steeply to Chele, the first village where Tibetan culture takes over completely.
A long day with several climbs. We follow the edge of a deep canyon to the Taklam La (3,624 m) and Dajori La (3,735 m), with views back south to Nilgiri, then drop to the village of Samar among poplar trees. Beyond Samar the trail crosses the Bhena La and the Yamda La (3,850 m) before descending to the small settlement of Syangboche.
We climb gently through open, eroded country to the Nyi La at 4,010 m, the first high pass of the trek, hung with prayer flags. On the far side the trail drops to Ghami, one of the largest villages in Lo, set among fields of barley and buckwheat. Just beyond the village is the long Ghami mani wall, which we pass on the way north tomorrow.
We walk past the Ghami mani wall, one of the longest in Nepal, and climb over the Tsarang La (3,870 m). The descent leads into Tsarang, a large village of whitewashed houses with a five-storey white dzong and a red monastery standing on the edge of the Tsarang Khola gorge. Your guide will take you to the monastery in the afternoon.
We drop into the Tsarang Khola gorge and climb steadily across open plateau to the Lo La at 3,950 m. From the pass Lo Manthang appears below: a rectangle of walls on a wide plain, with the palace and monastery roofs rising above the houses. A short descent brings us through the town gate in time for lunch.
A full day based in Lo Manthang. In the morning we walk north to the Chhoser valley to see the multi-storey cave dwellings of Jhong cut into the cliffs and the Garphu and Nyiphu monasteries. In the afternoon your guide shows you around the town's monasteries, Jampa and Thubchen with their old wall paintings, and the narrow lanes around the royal palace. Those who prefer a shorter day can hire a horse or jeep for the Chhoser excursion.
We leave Lo Manthang by the western trail and climb to the Marang La at 4,280 m, the highest point of the trek, with wide views back over the plateau to the Tibetan border hills. The trail descends to Lo Gekar, or Ghar Gompa, a small monastery associated with Guru Rinpoche and filled with carved and painted stones. After visiting it we cross the Mui La (4,170 m) and descend to Drakmar beneath its red, fluted cliffs.
A short descent brings us back to Ghami, where we rejoin the main trail. We climb again to the Nyi La (4,010 m) and then take the lower trail down through fields to Ghiling, a quiet village with a large red monastery and a cluster of chortens.
We walk south to Syangboche and back over the Yamda La (3,850 m), then retrace the route through Samar and Chele. From Chele the trail descends steeply to the Kali Gandaki and follows the river to Chhusang, where the air feels noticeably thicker.
The last walking day follows the Kali Gandaki south past Tangbe to Kagbeni, where your guide signs the group out of the restricted area. After lunch we continue down the wide river bed to Jomsom, usually with the wind at our backs. In the evening we celebrate the end of the trek with the crew.
We take the early morning flight from Jomsom back to Pokhara, with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna close to the windows on either side. After the transfer to your hotel the rest of the day is free by Phewa Lake.
Permits we arrange: Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit, Annapurna Conservation Area (ACAP)
Upper Mustang, the area north of Kagbeni, is a restricted area. Every foreign trekker needs a Restricted Area Permit issued by the Department of Immigration, and it can only be applied for through a registered trekking agency with a licensed guide. Since the Cabinet decision of November 2025, foreigners pay USD 50 per person for each day spent inside the restricted area, replacing the old flat fee of USD 500 for ten days. Our itinerary spends ten days inside the area. Since March 2026 the Department of Immigration also issues the permit to a single trekker, but a licensed guide is still required for every trekker. You also need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, which costs NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals. We arrange both permits; we need a scan of your passport and a passport photo at least a week before departure, and you must carry your passport on the trek.
Flights between Pokhara and Jomsom run only in the early morning, because strong wind blows up the Kali Gandaki from late morning onwards. Delays and cancellations are common in cloud or high wind, especially in spring and during the monsoon. If the flight does not go, we either wait for the next morning or drive to Jomsom by jeep, which is a long day on the road via Beni. The small aircraft on this route have strict baggage limits, so keep your trekking bag light and leave anything you do not need at your hotel in Pokhara. We recommend keeping at least one spare day in your plans after the trek.
Most nights are spent between 3,500 m and 3,810 m, and the passes reach 4,010 m on the way north and 4,280 m on the Marang La on the way back. The ascent is gradual, with a full day based in Lo Manthang, but headaches and poor sleep in the first few nights above 3,500 m are normal. Drink plenty of water, walk at your guide's pace and tell your guide about any symptoms. If symptoms get worse, we descend; the Kali Gandaki valley drops quickly to below 3,000 m at Chhusang and Kagbeni.
From late morning a strong, cold wind blows up the valley almost every day, carrying dust and grit. We start early to cover most of the distance before it picks up. Bring a buff or scarf for your face, wraparound sunglasses and high-factor sun cream, and lip balm. Nights are cold even in summer, and from late October temperatures in Lo Manthang fall well below freezing at night.
There are no ATMs north of Jomsom, so draw enough Nepali rupees in Pokhara to cover drinks, snacks, hot showers, charging, tips and monastery fees. Most villages have electricity and many lodges have wifi, usually for a small charge, but supply can be patchy. A power bank is useful. Mobile signal is available in parts of the route but not everywhere.
Upper Mustang's monasteries are active religious sites. Walk clockwise around chortens, mani walls and prayer wheels, remove your shoes and hat when entering a gompa, and ask before taking photographs inside; photography is not allowed in some chapels. Dress modestly and ask before photographing people. The Tiji festival in Lo Manthang takes place in spring, usually in May, and lodges fill up quickly at that time.
Everything is yours to bring, except items marked “We provide” or “Rent locally”.
Windproof and waterproof shell jacket
Essential for the afternoon wind
Down jacketWe provide
On loan for the trek
Fleece or light insulated mid-layer
Base layers, top and bottom
Two sets, merino or synthetic
Trekking trousers
Two pairs
Trekking shirts
Long sleeves help against sun and wind
Warm hat and sun hat
Buff or scarf
To keep dust out of your mouth and nose
Light and warm gloves
Broken-in trekking boots with ankle support
Camp shoes or sandals
Trekking socks
Four pairs
Four-season sleeping bagWe provide
On loan; a liner is recommended
Daypack, 25 to 35 litres
Trekking polesRent locally
Available to hire in Pokhara
Wraparound sunglasses
Category 3 or 4
Head torch with spare batteries
Water bottles or hydration bladder, 2 litres
Power bank
High-factor sun cream and lip balm
Water purification tablets or filter
Personal first aid kit and medication
Include blister care and any altitude medication your doctor prescribes
Passport with Nepal visa
Checked at the Kagbeni checkpoint
Travel insurance details
Must cover helicopter evacuation
Nepali rupees in cash
No ATMs north of Jomsom
Since the November 2025 Cabinet decision, foreigners pay USD 50 per person for each day inside the restricted area north of Kagbeni, instead of the old USD 500 for ten days. Our itinerary spends ten days inside, so the Restricted Area Permit comes to USD 500 per person. The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit costs NPR 3,000 on top. Both are included in the trip.
You cannot trek it independently. A licensed guide arranged through a registered agency is required for every trekker. Since March 2026 the permit can be issued to a single trekker rather than only to groups of two or more, so we can run the trek privately for one person.
Yes. A jeep road now runs from Jomsom to Lo Manthang. Our route uses the old walking trails and passes wherever they leave the road, such as over the Nyi La and the Marang La and through Lo Gekar, but on some sections you share the track with the occasional jeep or motorbike.
Yes. Upper Mustang lies in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges and gets little rain in June, July and August, when the barley fields are green. The catch is getting there: Pokhara to Jomsom flights are delayed more often in the monsoon, and the road up the Kali Gandaki can be cut by landslides, so allow spare days.
The highest point is the Marang La at 4,280 m on the return from Lo Manthang to Lo Gekar. The highest overnight stops are Lo Manthang and Drakmar at about 3,810 m. You also cross the Nyi La at 4,010 m on the way north.
They are simple family-run lodges with twin rooms, shared bathrooms in most places and a heated dining room. The menus are similar to the rest of the Annapurna region: dal bhat, noodles, soups, potatoes, eggs and Tibetan bread. Lodges in Lo Manthang and Tsarang are the most comfortable, and some have attached bathrooms.
Tiji is a three-day monastic festival in Lo Manthang held in spring, usually in May, on dates set by the Tibetan lunar calendar. We can arrange the trek so that you are in Lo Manthang for it; book early, as lodges fill up.
On the way in, we either wait for the next morning's flight or drive to Jomsom by jeep. On the way out, the same applies in reverse. Extra hotel nights and road transport caused by flight problems are not included, which is why we recommend keeping a spare day before your onward travel.
Upper Mustang Trek
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